thoughts on the Olifants River - October 2008
The last few newsletters have had some input regarding rainfall and water availability. The shortage of water is always a very serious concern to all Kruger Park enthusiasts as the wellbeing of our precious animals is totally dependent on good rains and available drinking.
In this respect, my thoughts engage the Olifants River, which forms the northern boundary of the Balule section of Kruger Park in which Tremisana Lodge is situated - in fact, the river is a mere 7 km away. The name conjures images of bygone days of an unspoiled Africa with vast herds of game, especially elephants, whence the name 'Olifants' . Unfortunately this image is, in my opinion, a far cry from today’s reality.
I recall the words of T. S. Eliot in The Dry Salvages:
"I do not know much about gods, but I think that the river
is a strong brown god - sullen, untamed and intractable,
patient to some degree, at first recognised as a frontier,
useful, untrustworthy, as a conveyor of commerce,
then only a problem confronting the builder of bridges.
The problem once solved, the brown god is almost forgotten
by the dwellers in cities – ever, however implacable,
keeping his seasons and rages, destroyer, reminder
of what men choose to forget. Unhonoured, unpropitiated
by worshippers of the machine, but waiting, watching and waiting."
The Olifants River rises in the eastern Highveld near Witbank and travels about 600 km before it enters the Kruger Park. On the way it is dammed and water is extracted for agriculture, industry and other human needs.
My concern is that the quality and quantity of water entering Kruger has so deteriorated over the years that the animals are suffering. You will recall some of my previous newsletters made mention of (as yet unexplained) crocodile deaths in the lower reaches of the Olifants. I believe that the toxicity of the water is responsible. I also reckon that the coal mines near Witbank and the copper and phosphates mining at Phalaborwa have played a part.
The demise of this once - flourishing river is, in my opinion, a direct result of mining and industry exploiting the natural environment in a very uncaring and irresponsible manner. If allowed to continue unchecked, we can expect the Olifants River to be reduced to a toxic drain where animal life will be severely compromised. As conservationists, we must let our concerns be heard..
GAMEVIEWING NEWS FROM THE RANGERS
There has been virtually no rain in Kruger during October 2008. The game-viewing has been exceptional. We have also had some unusual consequences: Bertus found a very young rhino stuck in the mud at a waterhole and contacted Brian Jones of Moholoholo who now has little “Satara”, as he named the young rhino, in his care at the Rehabilitation Centre. Our guests on our 5 day and 6 day safaris have reported that the little rhino has a friend roughly his own size and they are the firm favourites of people visiting Moholoholo.
We have also come across a number of carcasses on our 4 hour bush walks on Balule - testimony to the very harsh conditions under which the animals are now living.
BONGANI reports that on 2nd October, his guests came across a pride of 19 lions that consumed a wildebeest in a very short time. Once they had polished it off, they then proceeded to hunt a zebra.
On the 12th, Bongani was conducting a Bush Walk . He came across White Rhino spoor and decided to track the animals. He located two rhino resting under a tree and on the way to get a closer look, realised that a buffalo had been following him. Talk about being between a rock and a hard place! Anyway it all turned out OK (despite the guests’ inordinately high adrenalin surge) as the buffalo veered off once it saw the rhinos.

Two rhino resting under a tree
Bongani’s highlight of the month took place on 26 October. “We had stopped to watch a rhino taking a mud bath. Suddenly we saw the big head of an elephant bull coming out of the bushes on its way to join the rhino at the water. Equally suddenly we saw a lioness on the left carefully stalking an impala. It crawled closer and closer to the impala. My guests were so excited that I had to order them to keep quiet or the lioness might run away. The lioness attempted to jump on the impala but missed. The impala ran away a few metres and another lioness came from nowhere and jumped on its back and bit it through the neck. As it was killing the impala, six other lionesses appeared from nowhere and tore the impala apart. About a minute later, a male lion arrived in a rush only to find that there was nothing left to eat.”
BERTUS reports that he had Big Five sightings on every one of his safaris at the beginning of the month, but, as the temperatures rose towards the end of the month, leopard sightings were rare. He reports (again) seeing a leopard up a tree in the shade of which an elephant was resting. On the 4th October, Bertus found the baby rhino stuck in the mud at Welverdiend waterhole (reported above).
On the 14th October Bertus and clients found a pride of 18 lions on a buffalo kill on the Sweni Road. Later that day, they saw four rhinos at Girivana waterhole and caught a fleeting glimpse of a leopard at Orpen Gate. Apparently this leopard has been seen a number of nights on the Orpen webcamera. I remind you that you can see this waterhole and the one at Satara by logging onto www.sanparks.org and looking under webcameras.
On the 18th, Bertus reports enjoying six different sightings of lions! He reports his highlight of the month as happening on 30th October:
“We arrived at Shimangwanene Dam and found a big male lion with his paw on a warthog. He called and five cubs came and joined him at the warthog. He was trying to allow them to learn how to kill. Every time he released the warthog, the cubs made no attempt to attack it and he had to catch it again. The cubs were unable to kill it and eventually the lion became impatient and did the job himself. It was good to see him share the warthog with the cubs - something he was not prepared to do with three lionesses that he kept at bay. These lionesses looked full anyway - a big Sable Antelope bull came to drink and they made a half-hearted attempt at chasing him. Later on we came across three cheetah that were also too full to chase a herd of impala a mere 20 metres away - an easy catch if they felt like it ."
Bertus had some good walks on Balule Plains: on the 5th he had guests from a Lodge and followed spoor of a leopard for over an hour but was given the slip. On the 13th Pride Rock lived up to its name when Bertus came across 4 lions and 2 lionesses there.
His highlight of the month’s Bush Walks is reported as follows: “On the 15th we had a walk I shall never forget. Accompanied by four guests, I was walking near Chapel Dam when we heard a loud roar. Next a big male lion was facing us about 40 metres away and he was not a happy chappy. My guests did very well to obey what I had told them to do in my pre-walk instructions and retreated slowly. Nevertheless the lion charged us. At 30 metres I fired a warning shot which stopped him in his tracks. I had decided to shoot to kill if he had carried on, so I am very grateful that the warning shot had the desired effect. We were all a little shaken but have a story to tell about an experience we shall NEVER forget.”

Big male lion - not a happy chappy.
TOBY advises me that October 2008 has been rather sad. While he was patrolling the fence line at Marc’s on the 11th, he came across a bushbuck ram that had been caught in a snare. Fortunately he was still alive and, with the help of the Warden, Jonathan Beretta, the bushbuck was released after receiving some first aid. On the very next day, Toby discovered the warthog, that grazed on a nightly basis in front of his room, caught in a snare. Unfortunately, she died while trying to get free. Perhaps poaching is on the increase as a result of the trying economic times - we shall all have to be more vigilant.
In Kruger, Toby reports seeing seven different prides of lions on 28th October – one better than Bertus! One of these prides had pulled down a giraffe on the 25th – Toby arrived within half an hour of the actual kill – and the pride was now staking an impala herd. Toby and guests also watched a small (1,5 metre) black mamba being harassed at the Timbavati picnic spot.
NELLY reports excellent sightings of the Big Five all month long. He drove a fly-in group (Richard Hall and 4 friends) from Numbi to Orpen on 24th and back again on the 25th and easily found them good sightings of all the Big Five on both days. These sightings included a leopard kill and 4 of the 5 simultaneously at Kumana Dam.
Nelly’s other highlights included an attempted kill by a leopard on an impala near Bobbejaankrans and elephants chasing six lions at Mudzanzene waterhole - in sight of the picnic spot.
THULANI only spent six days guiding in Kruger and had excellent sightings: a pack of six hyena feeding on an elephant carcass; Buffalos, white rhinos and elephants simultaneously at Welverdiend waterhole; a young (and inexperienced)female leopard casing a monkey from branch to branch of a Leadwood tree near Ngotso; a pride of 11 lions at Mudzanzene; five lionesses stalking and missing a zebra on the S 100; six lionesses feeding on a giraffe on the S 100; lions feeding on a hippo at Ngotso South and his highlight: a lioness stalking and catching an impala along the Timbavati River.
I include a photo I took - we are never sure from a photo exactly how far the animal is, what with telephoto lenses. No lying about this one, though.

Lioness photographed by one of our guests
I also include shots of Nsemani Dam taken on 10 October and 23 October - notice the rapid drop in water level as a result of the high temperatures and evaporation rate.


10 October ------ 23 October
A rapid drop in water levels at Nsemani Dam!
TREMISANA’s is the worst off in terms of lack of grazing. Warthogs look like skeletons and kudu deaths have been higher than ever before. Despite the appearance of leaves on some trees, I think the tannin levels are so high in the few leaves that have appeared that the kudu are dying even with relatively full stomachs!
We have revamped the outside guest “Bush ablutions” and upgraded the kitchen.
With kind regards,
Piero
Labels: 2008, Gameviewing, Kruger Park, News, October, Tremisana





